- Annapurna 4th 7,525 Expeditions
Though Ama Dablam lying in the Everest region is a small snowcapped peak of 6812m, she is one of the most beautiful montain peaks in the world. The normal route to climb Mt. Ama Dablam, is from its South-West ridge. Most of the mountaineering beginners start their climbing through this Mountain. This South-west ridge is the normal and most popular route to ascend the Mt. Ama Dablam.
This mountain is considered to be the most technical and difficult to climb, as well. The mountaineers have to cross-difficult ice rocks and steep snow climbing on their climbing route. Mountaineers usually have to install 3 high camps on the mountain. To reach the first camp from base camp, the climbers have to pass the toughest and the difficult pass through the difficult saddle ridges; and then should turn to the north climbing up through the rocky ground and through the boulder.
From Camp I, one has to cross the rocky bowl and should climb the ridge through the fixed lines to Camp II. From Camp I after crossing over severe rocks and ridge which lead you to Camp II. The climbing route from Camp II is mostly with the steep mixed alley-ways of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the slope climb to snow ground and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnel then finally along the snow ridge to go to Camp III. From there, it is steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier to the summit. From the Top of Mt. Ama Dablam very charming sceneries of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Island Peak, Makalu, Khumbu Himalayan and rest of the snow-capped surrounded mountains can be envisioned.
2. Baruntse 7129m Expeditions
The peak of Mount Baruntse has the altitude of 7129m, and is situated between Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu. This mountain was first ascended first by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow on 30 May 1954. They have climbed the mountain by the South-east Ridge. Since its first ascent, many climbers have used this route and got success. This mountain has also been coveted day by day like the other Pumori, Ama Dablam as well as Everest.
The south-east Ridge of Baruntse, is little bit difficult because it is straight-forwardly hard ways to climb. There are hard sections of 50 Degree’s elevation with a prominent ice cliff to be climbed combined with the risk of avalanche. The climbers have succeeded the mountain mostly in the spring season because the season is the best to the climber’s safety. But also some climbers have reached on its top in the autumn season as well.
3. Churen Himal 7371m Expedition
Mt. Churen is a rocky peak, similar to Kala Pataar, it lies above the village of Chukkung in the Everest (Khumbu) Region of Nepal. It lies to the North of Chukkung and takes approximately 3-4 hours of lung busting effort to get to the peak. It is often used as an acclimatisation trip by people going on to climb Imja Tse, especially if they haven’t been up to Everest Base Camp and Kala Pathaar. The peak, small by Himalayan standards, doesn’t require any technical expertise, just stamina is sufficient. Therefore, the propagation is needed to make it on many people’s list. Whoever has trekking to Everest Base Camp, it gives fantastic views of Imja Tse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and of Nuptse, which you won’t get from anywhere else.
4. Gyachung Kang 7952m Expedition
Gyachung Kang is onee of the highes peak at the Khumbu region. It is the highest peak lying betweem Mount Everest and Cho Oyu. It has twin snowy and rocky peak towers, separated by a narrow saddle, above the immediate surroundings. The approach is easy by Gokyo Lake, then by crossing from the Ngozumpa glacier.
5. Langtang Lirung 7234m Expedition
One of the most important mountains at the Central Nepalese Himalaya, Langtang Lirung, also called Langtang I, is the highest peak of the Langtang range.
Situated to the directly North of Kathmadu, the Langtang Himal, is readily accesible, but in a complex range. Its western border is marked by the Bhote Kosi (later on known as the Trisuli), beyond which rises the Ganesh Himal. To the east it is connected to the Jugal Himal, to the Northeast to the big massif of Shisha Pangma, while to the immediate north the Lende Tsangpo forms the natural border with Tibet.
Langtang Lirung itself is a bulky mountain with a 10 km long west to east running ridge that culminates at its eastern end in the actual summit. From there the south face drops steeply for 2200 meters to the floor of a giant circuit, from which the Lirung Glacier issues. Towards the western end of the long ridge, there is a significant notch, beyond which, it raises the shapely peak of Chenge Lirung (6581m), which is also known as Langtang II. It was first- climbed in 1963 by the Canadian Peter Taylor.
This mountain is a serious challenge for adventurous, because it is either technically very difficult (the west ridge), subject to a good deal of objective dangers (the East Ridge), or both (the south face).
6. Nuptse 7855m Expedition
The name Nup-tse in Tibetan word, means west-peak, because it is the western peak of the Lhotse-Nuptse-massif Situated in the Solu Khumbu region. Nuptse is just southwest of Mount Everest. The main ridge, which is separated from Lhotse by a 7556m high saddle, is crowned with 7 peaks and goes northwest until its steep west-face drops down more than 2300m to the Khumbu-glacier. The diamention of steep and rocky south-face of Nuptse is 2500m in height and 5 kilometers in width. The north slopes are rising from the Western valley with the upper part, attatched with Khumbu-glacier, above its famous icefall.
7. Pumori 7161m Expedition
In the Sherpa language, “Pumori” means “Unmarried Daughter”. Anyone, who has made the trip to Everest, either as a climber or trekker will bear in mind Pumori’s unique shape. This pyramid shaped 23,495 ft peak, located in Khumbu region overlooks the skyline behind Kala Pattar (19,000 ft). George Leigh Mallory named it as a training peak for past Everest teams, this peak now is offered as a guided climb by many different companies. There are as many as 20 expeditions in every climbing season.
The ascent starts from a beautiful base camp at 5,300m, aside a small lake, where you can pack your equipment- and to clarificate the water-let sand to drop all night. From base camp you have the most wonderful sight of Mt. Everest you can imagine, just above is Kalapattar Rock hill at 5545m.
The route follows the Southeast buttress before it traverses to the East Ridge for the remainder of the ascent. Requiring excellent physical fitness, Pumori offers sections of wild exposure, views of Lhotse and Mt. Everest, with technical difficulty worthy of any Himalayan alpinist. Pumori is a serious expedition peak and appropriate only for the experienced climbers in Himalaya.
8. Lhakpa Ri 7045m Expedition
Mount Lhakpa Ri is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very close to Mount Everest and one feels the moment as equal to be climbed Mount Everest; he reaches on the top of this mountain. It was first climbed by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col.
The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. Then you need to pass a few days for acclimatization. Leaving this base camp behind, you should start your expedition ahead towards the middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Then you have to take a night’s rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. After this, at this point you may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this, you should take a couple of day’s rest there. After that climbing up ahead you reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La, from where fantastic views of Makalu & Kanchenjunga are seen. Then you get a good look of your route up to the Lhakpa Ri. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach at the very foot of the slope, leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are of 20 –30 degrees vertical elevations. This route is not very hard to climb but the vertical way is very long. You have to use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other side, you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads you up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From the Lhakpa Ri, you can have a very beautiful views of mountains above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below can be seen there.
After getting to the summit, on your way back, you can select the special route to get down via Lhasa the ancient capital city of Tibet. And this new route may give you another enthusiastic and charming feeling inside you.