Above 8000 m.
1. Everest 8848m South Col Expedition
There are FOUR different ways to climb on Mt.Everest with expeditions. Nepal offers the South Col Route, the route, which Sir Edmond Hillary and Late Tenzing Norge Sherpa first climbed this peak in May 29, 1953, after their long time’s effort. It starts from Everest Base Camp situated on Khumbu glacier is at hight of 18000ft. All the international Mount Everest climbers are assembled here during the starting and at the ending time of their climbing. They are offered with the air of different experience; they feel themselves, the most proud and adventurous one in the World
Normally, the climbing duration of this expedition lasts for 90 days. All the climbers who mass there at the base camp seem really busy with excitement for the preparation of their expedition to reach on the summit. Some climbers climb this mountain on their own risk without any climbing Sherpa guide; and some climbers go with their own climbing Sherpa guide. Most of the teams carry on their own internet, satellite phone, medical doctor and other modern requirement. After the Base camp, one has to cross crevasses, and ice black. Similarly, we should face the way up, having Chunks of ice as large as our houses where we should use fixed ropes and aluminum ladders to climb ahead camp 1st at 6400m.
2. Lhotse 8516m Expedition
Several expedition teams attempted to climb to scale Mt.Lhotse (8516m.), the fourth tallest in the world, after the success of Swiss expedition in 1956. The lower peak, Mt. Lhotse Shar 8383m, sometime considered a separate 8000m peak, Mt Lhotse, which means “South peak” in local language is a part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest.
Lhotse East or Lhotse Middle & Lhotse Shar
Mt. Lhotse Shar (8383m.) was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. Then Japanese, South Koreans, and Germans attempted from various routes on its main peak. Polish and Italians also climbed the summit before the summit was reached again by German expeditions in 1977.
The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world. This section during the climb that has been unanimously declared the dangerous as The South Face & the Khumbu Icefall.The South Face though attempted many times but was successfully climbed only in 1990 by a solo expedition from Yugoslavia. This beautiful massif also holds immense promise as it is little developed and offers fascinating opportunities.
3. Makalu 8463m Expedition
Makalu, the world’s fifth highest peak in the world, rises to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters). This beautiful and impressive massive is situated just 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. Makalu is actually a double peak. The subsidary peak rising just north of the main summit connected by a saddle is called Chomolonzo (25,650 ft.). It is interesting to note that the summit ridge is the demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North. The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and this is a by-name of Lord Shiva – one of the most important Gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect – Kumva Karna, which means ‘the ever-sleeping brother of Ravan’.
For the climbers of the world, Makalu has proved to be a challenging, because only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. To date, there have been a total of 206 successful ascents of Makalu and a total of 22 fatalities. There have been no known winter ascents of this peak.
Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired and studied by several Everest expeditions, but like giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest was first ascended in 1954.
4. Dhaulagiri (8167m) Expeditions
Though first climbed by the Swiss in 1960, the mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873. However, the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. Its name is derived from Sanskrit “Dhavala” which means “White” and “giri” is “Mountain”.
The French Mt. Annapurna expedition team had been permitted to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri in 1950 but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri. A Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year later After four more expeditions had failed, eight members of a Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960. The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass. The expedition was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the “Yeti” which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end of the expedition the plane crashed near Dhampus pass and the pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.
5. Cho Oyu (8,201m) Expedition – Tibet Side
Austrian Team first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954, the 6th Highest Peak in the world. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till now, many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee of Cho Oyu at the sector of expedition. The golden jubilee ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand fanfare and jubilantly.
There were nearly 400 climbers from different regions of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit. Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due to the easy technique-climbing route from there. Meeting and climbing information for Mt Cho Oyu You need not wait at all, the expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu, where you are welcome by our staffs in the airport and received to hotel. Next day, we make introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition, Goddess of Turtoise in Tibbetan language, or bald God in other legend.
After 3 days, we drive towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arniko Highway, where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation receive us there. The expedition gears go by truck but the members there Travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization.
Next day, we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m. along the rough way with jerking & bouncing experience through grassy plain which leads up to the Chinese base camp.
A schedule of the yaks is made by that time, then a camp is set up at the China side Base Camp, where we stay two nights or more, it depends on the feelings and decisions of your members. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Then we hve two-days walk towards the advance base camp. There you can see the outstanding scene of Cho Oyu from the main base camps, where you stay for the longer duration look the favorable situation for the expedition. Everyone gets his or her own tent there.
Camp 1 is installed on the elevated place at the altitude of 6400m, from where the real mountaineering starts. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally, one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is full of crevasses, normally these make no problems.
Camp 2 is installed on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m, where you can carefully assess where to fix the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes before summitting the ascent.
At last, the final climbilng starts early in the morning from camp 3 for the summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions. However, once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau.
From the summit of Cho Oyu, the panorama is really breathtaking and magnificent, includes the view of Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west, you can see, Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs; and to the north, you can see there is all Tibet area. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from the summit directly, without staying at Camp 3.
6. Kanchanjangha 8586m Expedition
An enormous mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rising from its narrow icy ridges, makes Mt. Kangchenjunga the third highest mountain in the world & 2nd highest in Nepal. Primarily it consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8420m high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles Northwest of Darjeeling. It was first climbed by a British team in 1956.
British botanist JD Hooker was the first Westerner to explore Kanchanjunga. He visited the area twice in 1848 and 1849. Exploration of the Sikkim, side of the peak continued with both British and Indian explorers mapping and photographing until 1899. At the same year, a party led by Douglas fresh field made a circuit of Kanchanjunga and produced what is still one of the most authoritative maps of the region.
Exploration continued mostly from the Sikkim side, with expeditions starting from Darjeeling in British India. One of the major contributors to Western knowledge about the region was Dr AM Kellas, who later died in Tibet during the approach march of the 1921 Everest expedition. German expeditions attacked the peak in 1929, 1930 and again in 1931, but none was successful. Then Sikkim was closed but Nepal was open. In 1955 a team led by Dr Charles Evans approached the peak through the Yalung Glacier. Two teams climbed the peak, stopping just short of the summit to confirm to an agreement with the Maharaja of Sikkim that the summit would remain inviolate.
Then the Japanese took up the challenge and mounted expeditions in 1967, 1973 and in 1974, when they climbed Yalung Kang. A German Expedition climbed Yalung Kang in 1975, and an Indian army team mounted the second successful expeditions to the main peak of Kanchenjunga.
7. Manaslu 8163m Expeditions
Situated in Gorkha, the district of brave Gurkhas, and located forty miles east of Annapurna, Manaslu (also known as Kutang locally) is the eighth highest mountain in the world. The mountain’s long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and it culminates in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape, and is a dominant feature when seen from afar. This mountain was previously known as Kutang l. ‘Tang’ in Tibetan language means flat place, it signifies that the mountain has gentle summit. The name was later changed to Manaslu, which is derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa and can be roughly translated as Mountain of the Spirit.
The first ascent of this peak was in 1956 by T. Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu (Japanese expedition team). The peak was not climbed again until 1971 when a Japanese team made the second ascent. It was not until 1997 that Charlie Mace made the first American ascent. There are a half dozen established routes on the mountain today, the south face being arguably the toughest in climbing history. As of 2003, the peak has seen only 240 successful ascents and 52 fatalities, making it the 4th most dangerous 8000m peak, after Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, and K2.